|
|
Order a grip heat control for motorbikes
|
|
|
|
 Allround model
This unit is designed to be installed in instrument panels or side palstic covers of the motorbike.
Control cable lenght is 1.5ft for regulator installation in the side section or panel of the bike. Water proofed housing. Designed for all heating grip sets on the market, heated socks, heated
jackets or heated motorbike seats. Replaces the standard switch supplied with the heating grip set. Maximum power supply and switching capability 60 watts. Control cable can be extended
with a three wire cable to a maximum lenght of 6.5ft. The control unit does switch the power without power loss. There is no heat produced in the control unit. The regulator is a standard
1MOhm variable resistor.
|
|
Price Euro 40,-
|
 The unit can only be ordered via the e-mail listed here.
|
|
|
|
IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR YOUR ORDER !!
|
|
We don’t have a shop and we are not a
company. The above offered unit is produced at a small electrical company in the Eifel mountains of Germany in small quantities. That’s the reason for that low price compared to the motorbike parts
suppliers. We just sell from motorbikers to motorbikers and add 2,- Euro handling fee. That’s fair. The handling fee is already included in the price listed above.
|
|
|
|
|
There are three possible order and shipment methods
|
For orders inside the European Union it’s relatively easy. You send an e-mail with your address details for the
shipment.We tell you our bank acount number and IBAN and you transfer the money. The amount will be setup by the unit itself, bank account cost and shipment cost. As soon as the money is on our
account, we ship the device. For orders outside the European union you send an e-mail with your address details. We calculate the amount in
US dollars and you send the dollars in a letter. As soon as the money reaches us, we ship the unit. For some countries outside the European union, like Switzerland it is also possible to transfer the money via
bank account. Several motorbike friends also use friends in Germany that process the order and then ship the unit in a small package acroos the borders.
|
|
What ever you prefer, we can discuss this on e-mail and establish the lowest cost transportation and payment.
|
|
|
|
General information about the control unit
|
|
The digital control unit was designed
in that way, that it can handle all heating grips and their power consumption that are available on the market today and can be used as replacement for the existing heating switch. The control operates
fully electronically in the pulse-pause mode with 1.6Hz and is absolutely protected agains surges and sags or pulses on the motorbikepower net caused by the engine control units. The unit can handle up
to 60 watts of power.
|
|
|
|
Electrical connection
|
- Red wire +12V power supply
- Black wire motorbike chassis ground
- Second red wire connects to the heat grip (both red wires are connected in parallel inside the control unit)
- Blue wire connects to the heat grip
|
|
|
|
Installation
|
The three position switch, which is part of any grip heating kit can be removed and is no longer required.
The location for the control box installation should not face direct heat from the engine or exhaust pipe. Best
installation location is behind the plastic cowling on the left or right hand side of the handle bar. If you have no plastic cowling on your motorbike, like on choppers, use the location under the
seat and extend the three wire control cable. The unit itself is water proof, nevertheless you should not choose an installation location that receives permanent water during rain rides.
Normally all the heat grips you can purchase on the market have a maximum power consumption of approximately 35
watts. Therefore a connection of the power control unit power cable to the power supply cable of the horn is in most cases the best choice. You may install the control unit with a tape that sticks both sides and secure that with a cable-tie. If the
control unit box has direct contact to the frame, we recommend to reduce direct vibration contact by installing a piece of rubber foam between the chassis and the control unit box. The connection to ground is usually done with a crimp connector that has an eye to screw it onto the chassis of
your motorbike. Some motorbikes have already prepared ground connections installed for add on accessories. Each heating grip has a cable with two wires. There is no difference of these wires and there is no polarity or
plus/minus you have to take care of. Both heating grips are connected in parallel to the control unit. Use one of the red wires (don’t care which one, since they are soldered parallel inside the
control unit) and the blue wire. The heating grips are supplied with +12V all the time. Only the ground is switched pulse-pause modulated on and off. The control cable to the regulator (1MOhm pot) can be extended to a maximum of 6ft., if you need to install the
control unit under the seat or in the rear section of your motorbike. To do that, just cut the control cable in the middle and solder a piece with the correct lenght in between. But take care - don’t
mix up the wires. Do not remove the insulation on the regulator, because this will destroy it. If you have chosen the correct installation location for the regulator, then drill a whole, put the regulator
through and fasten it with a nut. You may cut of the overlength of the plastic with a pliers. Then stick the control knob on it.
|
|
|
|
Installation Test and troubleshooting
|
To test the correct operation and in case of troubleshooting, disconnect the heating grips and install a
standard 12V, 21 watts bulb instead, that is used as load for the control unit. Connect that bulb to the red and the blue wire. The grip heating control operates correctly, if the lamp gets on and off with different rhythms depending on the
positon of the regulator you have turned to. Full left position - the lamp should be of. Full right position - the lamp should be on all the time. In between these positions, the lamp should
pulse-pause with different pulse-pause pattern.
|
|
I have installed the control unit correctly, but my heat grips deliver different heat levels
|
|
First perform the function test as described above.
|
|
Important!
|
You must disconnect both heating grips and have only the test lamp installed. Is this test successful, then one
of the heating grips has direct connection to the ground via the handle bar. This usually happens when you use heating grips, where the heating wire is directly molded into the rubber.
Sometimes the heating wire is not fully covered with rubber inside and does short connect to the ground via the handle bar. It is therefore always recommended to add at least one layer of thin
insulation tape on the side of the handle bar, that does not have the throttle on, but shows the blank metal.
|
|
I turn the regulator knob, but the unit delivers in any position the same heat level
|
|
Again, perform the function test as
described before first. Does the blink frequency of the lamp not change when you turn the knob, then water or humidity sits in the regulator or the control box. It also can be that a cable has got
contact to ground based on vibrations. This we have seen several times on bikes where the users have installed the cables not very safely. It also can be that you have extended the control cable, but the
connection is not 100% water proof. Since the regualtor is a 1MOhm pot, a little humidity in the control cabel is enough to change pulse-pause mode significantly.
|
|
Is an ON/OFF switch required for the unit?
|
|
The control unit is OFF in the most
left position. The base current in that position is so low, that you simply can forget about it. But - it looks better to have an ON/OFF switch and an operation LED. In addition you can leave the
regulator in the last position and just switch OFF. We have always installed an ON/OFF switch and a LED on our bikes.. But that’s up to you to decide.
|
|
|
